TEXTILE INDUSTRY by AZIF

TEXTILE INDUSTRY














SUBMITTED BY,
AZIF R S
1ST SEMESTER 2009 BATCH
ICM, POOJAPURA

SUBMITTED TO

PROF. JAYAMOHAN NAIR


CONTENTS

TEXTILE INDUSTRY





1. INTRODUCTION Page 01

2. INDUSTRIAL ENVIORNMENT Page 04

3. ENVIRONMENTAL EFFECTS OF TEXTILE FIBRES Page 07

4. IMPACT OF TEXTILES AND CLOTHING INDUSTRY
ON THE ENVIRONMENT Page 09
5. TEXTILE INDUSTRY STRUCTURE Page 12
6. MAJOR PLAYERS IN TEXTILE INDUSTRY Page 13
7. FUTURE FORECAST Page 15
8. STATEMENTS ON TEXTILES PRODUCTION
& GROWTH Page 16
9. CONCLUSION Page 17




TEXTILE INDUSTRY
Introduction
The Global textile and apparel industry is worth over US$ 4395 billion with clothing accounting for 60 percent of the market and apparel, the balance 40 percent. Global trade in this industry is now at US$ 350 billion and is expected to be in the range of US$ 600 billion by 2010. U.S.A and European union are the major consumers of textiles. Among the countries, Japan, Australia and New Zealand are the significant consumers of Indian textiles.
Position of India in the Global Market
With china leading the global textile trade, India ranks second with 8 percent of the total. India contributes to nearly 4 percent of the total textile exports and 3 percent of the total apparel exports in the world
High production of wool, cotton and silk over the world has boosted the industry in recent years. Though the industry was started in UK, still in 19th Century the textile production passed to Europe and North America after mechanization process in those areas. From time to time Japan, China and India took part in industrializing their economies and concentrated more in that sector.










History of Textile Industry during the Industrial Revolution
The key British industry at the beginning of the 18th century was the production of textiles made with wool from the large sheep-farming areas in the Midlands and across the country (created as a result of land-clearance and enclosure). Handlooms and spinning wheels were the tools of the trade of the weavers in their cottages, and this was a labour-intensive activity providing employment throughout Britain, with major centers being the West Country; Norwich and environs; and the West Riding of Yorkshire. The export trade in woolen goods accounted for more than a quarter of British exports during most of the 18th century, doubling between 1701 and 1770 [1]. Exports of the cotton industry – centered in Lancashire – had grown tenfold during this time, but still accounted for only a tenth of the value of the woolen trade.
The textile industry grew out of the industrial revolution in the 18th Century as mass production of clothing became a mainstream industry. Starting with the flying shuttle in 1733 inventions were made to speed up the textile manufacturing process. In 1738 Lewis Paul and John Wyatt patented the Roller Spinning machine and the flyer-and-bobbin system. Lewis Paul invented a carding machine in 1748, and by 1764 the spinning jenny had also been invented. In 1771, Richard Arkwright used waterwheels to power looms for the production of cotton cloth, his invention becoming known as the water frame. In 1784, Edmund Cartwright invented the power loom. With the spinning and weaving process now mechanized, cotton mills cropped up all over the North West of England, most notably in Manchester and its surrounding towns of Ashton-Under-Lyne, Stalybridge and Dukinfield.
Textile mills originally got their power from water wheels, and thus had to be situated along a river. With the invention of the steam engine, in the 1760s to 1800s, mills no longer needed to be along rivers.






Post Industrial revolution
Many of the cotton mills, like the one in Lowell MA, in the US originally started with the intention of hiring local farm girls for a few years. The mill job was designed to give them a bit more money before they went back to the farm life. With the inflow of cheap labor from Ireland during the potato famine, the setup changed, as the girls became easily replaceable. Cotton mills were full of the loud clanking of the looms, as well as lint and cotton fiber. When the mills were first built a worker would work anywhere from one to four looms. As the design for the loom improved so that it stopped itself whenever a thread broke, and automatically refilled the shuttle, the number of machines a worker could work increased to up to 50.
Originally, power looms were shuttle-operated but in the early part of the 20th century the faster and more efficient shuttleless loom came into use. Today, advances in technology have produced a variety of looms designed to maximize production for specific types of material. The most common of these are air-jet looms and water-jet looms. Industrial looms can weave at speeds of six rows per second and faster.
By the later 20th Century, the industry in the developed world had developed a bad reputation, often involving immigrants in illegal "sweat shops" full of people working on textile manufacturing and sewing machines being paid less than minimum wages. This trend has resulted due to attempts to protect existing industries which are being challenged by developing countries in South East Asia, the Indian subcontinent and more recently, Central America. Whilst globalization has seen the manufacturing outsourced to overseas labor markets, there has been a trend for the areas historically associated with the trade to shift focus to the more white collar associated industries of fashion design, fashion modeling and retail.
Areas historically involved heavily in the "rag trade" include London and Milan in Europe, SoHo district in New York City and the Flinders Lane and Richmond districts in Melbourne and Surry Hills in Sydney.




Industrial Environment
It is well known that every customer product has an impact on the environment. However an average consumer does not know which product has less or more impact than the other one. Any product, which is made, used or disposed of in a way that significantly reduces the harm it would otherwise cause to the environment, could be considered as eco-friendly product. Slowly, consumers in India are taking lead in prompting manufacturers to adopt clean technologies to produce eco-friendly products.

The textile industry is shared between natural fibres such as wool, silk, linen, cotton and hemp, and man-made ones, the most common of which are synthetic fibres (polyamide, acrylic) made from petrochemicals. Most of the clothes in our wardrobes contain polyester, elastane or Lycra. These cheap and easy-care fibres are becoming the textile industry’s miracle solution. However, their manufacture creates pollution and they are hard to recycle (with nylon taking 30 to 40 years to decompose).The textile and clothing industry is a diverse one, as much in the raw materials it uses as the techniques it employs. At each of the six stages typically required to make a garment, the negative impacts on the environment are as numerous as they are varied. Spinning, weaving and industrial manufacture undermine air quality. Dyeing and printing consume vast amounts of water and chemicals, and release numerous volatile agents into the atmosphere that are particularly harmful to our health.

Several times a year in the world’s fashion capitals, willowy models in dazzling outfits sashay down the catwalk to present the coming season’s trends. Each year a handful of designers set the tone, says what’s in and what’s not. Chain-stores and mass retailers then adapt their ideas for the man and woman in the street. Fashion feeds a growing industry and ranks textile and clothing as the world’s second-biggest economic activity for intensity of trade. However, stiff competition forces down costs while working conditions, more often than not in developing countries, are far from ideal. The environment pays a heavy price too. To improve conditions for workers and stem pollution, textile producers, manufacturers and distributors are launching the first initiatives built around sustainable development: who knows, ecology may be the next new trend!

The world of fashion may be stylish, glamorous and exciting, but its impact on environment is worsening day by day.

According to the International Labour Organization, there are 246 million child-workers (age 5 to 14) in the world today. The Asian-Pacific region exploits the most child labour, followed by sub-Saharan Africa, Latin America and the Caribbean. In the textile sector, children are a cheap workforce for picking cotton, hand-sewing, etc. Thanks to the scandals revealed by NGOs and to consumer pressure, global brands are slowly integrating social clau¬ses into their subcontractor agreements.

From an environmental point of view, the clothes we wear and the textiles they are made from can cause a great deal of damage.
The pesticides that farmers use to protect textiles as they grow can harm wildlife, contaminate other products and get into the food we eat.

• The chemicals that are used to bleach and colour textiles can damage the environment and peoples health.

• Old clothes that we throw away take up precious space in landfill sites, which is filling up rapidly.

• Most of the textile machineries cause noise, sound and air pollution.

• Over-usage of natural resources like plants, water, etc depletes or disturbs ecological balance.

• The working conditions in the textile and clothing industry are of sub- standard.

• Exploitation of animals often goes hand in hand with intensive farming practices that damage the environment as a whole.









ENVIRONMENTAL EFFECTS OF TEXTILE FIBRES



Cotton is the most pesticide intensive crop in the world: these pesticides injure and kill many people every year. It also takes up a large proportion of agricultural land, much of which is needed by local people to grow their own food. Herbicides, and also the chemical defoliants which are sometimes used to aid mechanical cotton harvesting, add to the toll on both the environment and human health. These chemicals typically remain in the fabric after finishing, and are released during the lifetime of the garments. The development of genetically modified cotton adds environmental problems at another level. Growing cotton uses 22.5 percent of all the insecticides used globally? Growing enough cotton for one t-shirt requires 257 gallons of water. On top of that, bleaching and then dyeing the resulting fabric creates toxins that flow into our ecosystem. …

First of all, the cotton must be grown; this entails vast amounts of chemical fertilizers and pesticides that pollute and deplete the soil. Despite mecha¬nized harvesting, the cotton industry is still largely dependent on cheap labour. The raw cotton is then dyed, meaning chemicals and heavy metals with harmful effects on the envi¬ronment. Finally bands of cotton are assem¬bled in factories to be sown into a T-shirt. From wastewater emissions to air pollution and energy consumption, the textile industry weighs heavily on the environment.


Wool pollution: both agricultural and craft workers in the UK suffer from exposure to organophosphate sheep dip problem. Getting from fibre to cloth - bleaching, dyeing, and finishing - uses yet more energy and water, and causes yet more pollution.

Nylon and polyester - made from petrochemicals, these synthetics are also non-biodegradable, and so they are inherently unsustainable on two counts. Nylon manufacture creates nitrous oxide, a greenhouse gas 310 times more potent than carbon dioxide. Making polyester uses large amounts of water for cooling, along with lubricants which can become a source of contamination. Both processes are also very energy-hungry.


Rayon (viscose), another artificial fibre, is made from wood pulp, which on the face of it seems more sustainable. However, old growth forest is often cleared and/or subsistence farmers are displaced to make way for pulpwood plantations. Often the tree planted is eucalyptus, which draws up phenomenal amounts of water, causing problems in sensitive regions. To make rayon, the wood pulp is treated with hazardous chemicals such as caustic soda and sulphuric acid. The use of rayon for clothing is contributing to the rapid depletion of the world's forests. Petroleum-based products are detrimental to the environment on many levels





















Impact of textiles and Clothing industry on the environment :
Approach towards Eco-Friendly Textiles


Other materials used in clothing and shoes INDUSTRY include:

Leather (with polluting tanning and dyeing processes, as well as intensive farming impacts and animal rights issues).
Harmful solvents - used e.g. in glues and to stick plastic coatings to some waterproof fabrics.

ENVIRONMENTAL EFFECTS of textile processes

PVC, Harmful solvents used in glues, to stick plastic coating to some water proof fabrics.Dyeing alone can account for most of the water used in producing a garment; unfixed dye then often washes out of garments, and can end up colouring the rivers, as treatment plants fail to remove them from the water. Dye fixatives - often heavy metals - also end up in sewers and then rivers. Cloth is often bleached using dioxin-producing chlorine compounds.
And virtually all polycotton (especially bedlinen), plus all 'easy care', 'crease resistant', 'permanent press' cotton, are treated with toxic formaldehyde (also used for flameproofing nylon).

WORKERS RIGHTS

Many people feel that concern for the environment is intimately linked to concern for humankind, as well. Working conditions in the clothing industry are an international and national scandal. There are numerous reports of workers being forced to work long hours for desperately low pay, dangerous and unhealthy working conditions, female workers being sexually exploited, and attempts to form trades unions being brutally put down. Vulnerable people are routinely exploited in sweatshops and as home workers. In addition, the people who make clothes often have to work in terrible conditions. Many clothes bought in northern countries are imported cheaply from the South, where they are made by sweat shop workers (often children) who work long and hard for very little money.

ANIMAL EXPLOITATION

Exploitation of individual animals often goes hand in hand with intensive farming practises that also damage the environment as a whole.

Beyond this, many people feel that being 'green' includes a wish to avoid any form of animal exploitation - whilst others would argue vehemently that this is a luxury that cannot be supported in a sustainable world. Animal products used in clothing include fur, leather, silk (obtained by boiling or gassing to death many tens of thousands of silkworms), and wool.

Leather-free shoes are available from Vegetarian Shoes Online Store and Green Shoes.

Vegetarian credentials do not guarantee green credentials! - Leather substitutes can include problematic materials such as polyurethane, nylon and even PVC.

More than anything, the sheer amount of production is a problem - it has been calculated for example that the Earth could not produce enough natural fibres to provide for the present-day demand for new clothes.
This throughput is driven by a fashion industry geared to constant change - and our self-esteem, our social standing and even our job security can be at stake if we do not conform. Still, times are a-changing - for a start, fashion is less prescriptive now than for previous generations - and this may be an area of your life where you're ready to help drive the changes.

Today, the textile industry, which uses on an average six hundred dyes and chemicals for the priduction of consumer textiles, is considered most polluted sector of all the other industry. When moving to an environmentally-friendly lifestyle, one of the key elements to consider is ECO- fashion.












Textile Industry Structure











Attractiveness of the Industry
• Favourable Factor Conditions
• Abundant and low price supply of raw materials
• Availability of low cost skilled labour
• Favourable domestic market
• Attractive segments for investment



Major Players
The Major Players of textile industry can be divided into two. They are of
1. Small Scale Players
2. Large/Foreign Scale Players

Small Scale Players

The major Small Scale players in this sector are
• Spinning mills
• Weaving / Knitting units
• Garment Manufacturing units




Large Scale players
The major Large Scale players in this sector are
• Raymond Ltd
• Alok Industries
• Vardhman Spinning & General Mills Ltd
• Indian Rayon
• Century Textiles
• Welspun India
• Himatsingka Seide Ltd
• Bombay Dyeing
• Reliance textiles
• Hainan Xinlong Nonwovens

The major raw materials needed for textile industry are
• Cotton
• Wool
• Silk
• Jute etc














Future of Textile industry

Global trade in this industry is now at US$ 350 billion and is expected to be in the range of US$ 600 billion by 2010 and US$ 800 by 2014. Textile and garment manufacturers and exporters in the district were expecting a bright future in the days to come as more international buyers were turning their attention to Indian markers following hike in prices of textile and garmernts in China, which had the largest share in the export market.


The following graph shows current situation of textile industry:











Conclusion
Textile industry is an attractive sector that is poised for growth post the Multi-Fibre Agreement regime. The industry enjoys significant strength and advantages, such as availability of raw materials, labour, domestic market and supportive government policies. Efficient supply chains, superior technology and customer centricity and the ability to leverage the government incentives are the key success factors for the growth of multinational companies in this sector.